Tracing Burda patterns is like eating peas…

Burda Sew Along I don’t like to eat peas.

Apparently I used to although I was too young to remember the day I decided to stop.

Of course my Mum remembers.

One day my Uncle R visited from Australia and when Mum was dishing up dinner for everyone he asked to not have any peas. I guess I realised at that point that eating some foods must be voluntarily and I asked for no peas too and decided that I didn’t like them from then on and never ate them again. Well, that’s not entirely true, I am sure there is more to the story, probably an argument with a stubborn child who believed they had some new and fantastic knowledge about food choice and was keen to exercise it.

I have occasionally eaten peas since “growing-up”. NH eats them and sometimes I cook them for him so I eat them too. I don’t really dislike them but they are a take-it-or-leave-it vegetable option for me. I think it’s the chasing them around the plate bit that I don’t like more than the taste. If they are mixed into a meal (Chicken Fried Rice for example) or if I am given them as a guest at someone’s house I will eat them and not say anything but if I can fill my own plate I am more than likely to leave them behind.

I guess that story is a long way of illustrating my point that in life I think we often make a snap decision about something based on the opinion of others. These decisions mean we might not give something a try or when we do, we do so with the expectation of failure and a closed mind. Sometimes we just need to give something a go and make up our own mind.

Perhaps that’s a bit deep.

What I am trying to poke my unpicker at is that many people give Burda a lot of cr*p for their pattern sheets. I think the lack of love they receive online puts a lot of would-be Burda converts off.

A whole fashion magazine of sewing patterns? There must be a catch, oh yeah, you have to trace from this crazy looking sheet.

But how else do you expect them to produce a full magazine of patterns each month for just NZD$13.00?

Sorry if you think tracing is hard work, I don’t agree, and Burda isn’t really that bad.

As a member of Team Trace All My Patterns, I’ve been tracing from them for years. Obviously, even if you are on Team Cut The Patterns, you cannot, since they overlap lots of other pattern pieces.

And yes, I completely agree when they have halved the number of sheets recently to cram more patterns on each one it did make it a little bit more difficult but still, you get an edge index, 4 colours and different line types to follow. It’s not that hard once you get the hang of it. There is a method to the madness, a way to find your pattern piece within the scribbley mess of lines and after a while your eyes start following the right line and you sort of blur out the rest of the pattern sheet. I call this phenomenon “Burda Vision”, it’s magic!

Argh! Where is that sleeve piece?!

Ah ha! Same sheet, but through the eyes of a practised Burda Tracer – believe it or not you too can acquire the magic Burda Vision with patience and practise.

I’ve even got black and white large format copies of Burda pattern sheets and I still manage to trace from them.

Ok, I’m a visual person, I admit it is possible that I might find it easier than others but, before you judge, take a patience pill and give it a go with an open mind.

There are lots of tutorials out there on “How to trace Burda” or any pattern really, I’m not reinventing anything here, we all know how to trace. I just thought I’d show you how I deal with Burda in particular, the following works for me, it’s efficient, take from this what you need and jump right in.

First thing you need to do is grab some supplies:

  • My tracing medium of choice is “butter paper”, A1 sheets specifically – It’s a designer thing so don’t stress if you have no idea what that is. You can buy anything that is slightly see-through, a large stationary shop should sell rolls or large sheets of tracing paper, velum, film, they may even have butter paper too. I used to trace on cheap cooking paper from the $2 shop.
  • A pencil and a couple of pens – I like to trace the outlines in pencil and mark on darts and other pattern information with pen
  • Rulers for the straight lines, circle template and curves if you can be bothered
  • Some scrap paper for notes
  • Pattern weights (optional) can come in handy for keeping things still. Bluetack or masking tape work great too. Kittens are not recommended.
  • Scissors and sticky tape, sometimes you need to stick tracing sheets together for larger pattern pieces

I’m guessing you’ve already worked out your Burda size and if not go do that now:

Taking Measurements & Burda Size Charts

“Tall” Size Chart

First we need to work out what sheet our pattern is on and which pieces we need to trace. Remember this example from my earlier post?

Burda Instructions 01a

It was my intention to make just one item this month, the dress version of this skirt above, but I changed my mind, because I can 😉

Cardigan 117, Burda 04/2010

Then I was going to trace this cardigan but I realised it is one of the “extra” patterns that is shaded in red, not the best for this example, but good for you all to know that in each issue there is an “extra” pattern that is all shaded red with no overlaps so if you want you can cut it out or better yet, photocopy it , then cut it out to preserve the other patterns it overlaps.

“Extra” patterns are coloured in red and do not overlap each other – they are often spread across several sheets

I am going to make this cardigan (in this cute knit) but for this example I’ll trace another pattern that I’ll also try and make instead.

Skirt 111, Burda 07/2009

My pattern is on Sheet H and I am following the red lines for size 42. I usually trace a size 40 or 42 and take in the waist as needed. I need to trace pieces 1 through 4 and piece number 8.

On my scrap paper I write all this down for quick reference and checking off. I don’t generally trace in numerical order plus and as you can see, you don’t always get a simple list of pieces numbered 1 through 8, sometimes the pattern calls for pieces 22-26 & 32. It could get confusing so I cross them off as I go.

Now that I have my pattern pieces listed and the right pattern sheet in front of me the only thing left to do is actually find each piece to trace within the mess of lines. Burda has a system, basically you find your coloured pattern pieces number along what I call the “edge index” then trace a line perpendicular across and you will hit that piece.

I might run my finger around the shape to familiarise myself with it and then I lay my butter paper over and get tracing. I refer to the mini pattern pieces in the description as I go so that I pick up all the markings and grain lines.

Don’t forget to write on those little numbers (circled in purple above) when you are disoriented by the bewildering labyrinth of Burda “instructions” they will be your map for seam construction: 1 joins to 1, 2 joins to 2 and so on…

That’s it!

Now we start tracing.

Bonus Curious Kiwi Tip: I always trace the largest and most complicated piece first then work backwards towards the more simple and smaller pieces, that way it gets easier and faster as you go.

You’re welcome 😉

To prove that it isn’t as hard as you think I am going to show you in real-time me tracing this Burda pattern, but in fast forward, otherwise that would be super boring, and fast forward is much more entertaining.

I was going to try to make this more LOL funny but really once I got started I just kind of got on with the tracing 😉 Also I don’t do any talking so I tried to add some great Kiwi tunes instead but YouTube doesn’t like that *sad face! Anyway, I managed to add some random instrumental track from AudioSwap (which should actually be called AudioLame)…enjoy:

12 minutes, 26 seconds

…aaaand we’re done. Now I am ready to cut it out and start sewing…finally 😉

Sewing helper update: Harry is officially Harriet, or Harri for short and my little “runt” is now 10 weeks old and weighs 900 grams. She’s put on over 300 grams in 3 weeks since leaving her litter mates who were hogging all the food!

If you are wondering where my little furry helper was during all of the above, well I was hoping to get her into the video but Friday was a big day for her. Most of Saturday was spent underneath my cutting table snuggling in my scrap box.

More kitten pictures I hear you cry? Why I thought you’d never ask!

“Ohh wool remnants, my favourite!”

“No more tracing Mummy, attentions please!”

Sick of kitten pictures? Sorry, not sorry 😉 Now go eat some peas trace your Burda patterns.


74 thoughts on “Tracing Burda patterns is like eating peas…

  1. I am going to take the plunge and trace off a pattern! Luckily I have a 2009 Burda mag in my stash, so it will have the older layout. Phew! My library has a subscription so I might be able to get hold of a few older issues.
    Thanks for the inspiration and the cute kitty pics 🙂

    • Yay 🙂 The library is a great place to get lots of older issues – that’s how I used to get them myself. I should pop back and see what they have since I don’t subscribe any more.

  2. I think you are right. Tracing those pattern-pieces isn’t really such a hassle. I do think that adding the seam-allowance is, that actually takes up more time than the tracing. I don’t get why they don’t just add seam-allowance to the patternpieces… 😦
    What also puts me off is the sizing of the patterns. I have Burda-makes that fit me really well, and others that are just ridiculously huge on me, even though I always make sure I cut the right size… And I like eating peas, if they are cooked first, and then mixed with little pieces of bacon baked in butter… Mmmmmm yummy!

    • I have mixed feelings when it comes to seam allowances. I mainly prefer that a pattern does not have seam allowances because it makes it easier to make changes looking at the stitching line imo but I also agree it does add to your prep time having to add them on. You can speed up adding your seam allowances using two pencils taped together with a third (upside down) pencil in between, this makes their tips about 1.5cm apart, perfect for tracing the sewing line and the cutting line 🙂

  3. I trace my burda’s using a tracing wheel and news print paper. I place the paper underneath the pattern sheet and use the wheel to mark the pattern lines on the newsprint. The news print rolls are available from the local community newspaper printers in NZ and cost about $10-25 dependent on the size of the roll and last for ages.

    • Wow that’s a good price for a big roll of paper, what a great idea. When my hoard of tracing paper runs I’m going to give the tracing wheel method a go 🙂

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  6. Love this post..while I haven’t posted yet, last weekend I signed up for a blog specifically because I wanted a positive Burda post in the blogosphere and you have filled the void my friend. Personally, I have gained so much technical sewing ability just by tracing Burda’s patterns. I think tracing the pattern solidifies the construction process and allows me to “see” in my mind’s eye while I’m physically sewing cloth together.

    • I’m so glad you found my post positive 🙂 I think you are on to something there too, tracing really does help you get to know the pattern better and starts your brain thinking about the construction process. When I see a piece of clothing I’d like to make I can envision how the “flat” pattern piece would look and while I can’t really draft from scratch it gives me a starting point to find a similar pattern that I can alter. I think tracing for all these years might just be the reason why I find that so easy.

      Blogging is a lot of fun and you get to interact with some many other passionate people everywhere, I will watch for your first post xx

  7. Oi! I totally love your kitty and am jealous of your sewing table! As for tracing, I don’t mind it as much, but I worry about when my current roll of paper runs out. I have no idea where to buy it but the ladies here only use these types of sewing magazines (going to blog about some Brazilian titles soon) so they must use something. As for these tutorials: THANK YOU! I cut out my 11-2011-115 jacket and used so many of your tips! one pattern piece was cut out in the reverse (dotted line) only, and I never knew that until you posted. And somehow I missed marks and numbers on the two-piece sleeve, so the muslin was crazy until I deciphered (with your help) the little numbers and the match lines. The worst part was my jacket was the red line on the paper, and the paper had a large red shaded in pattern piece. My eyes were ready to quit. I am so glad you did these as part of the sewalong!

    • I am so happy that my tIps really helped you out, high five to a successful jacket muslin! 😀

      I traced my cardi that was all coloured in red after I Made my video. I said it’s supposed to make it easier but I found it more difficult but for the opposite reason to you, the red pattern lines from a non-coloured pattern underneath really confused me, I had to do a bit of blinking myself, hehe!

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  9. I have traced all of the patterns I have used so far, as I figure I am going to have to alter them anyway for my height/length, so I’d rather be doing that on paper that is a bit sturdier that the original. My dining table is a nice big glass top one, so I put a few lamps underneath it and turn it into a giant light box which makes the tracing much easier, even onto fairly heavy paper. I’ve not tried tracing one of the Burda magazine patterns yet — they do look quite intimidating.

    • I used to use the big light box at Uni sometimes to trace my envelope tissue patterns, it’s so much clearer through the tracing paper!

      I think when you first look at the whole Burda sheet all you see is lines, lines, lines! It looks very complicated but if you focus on the colour and pattern piece you need it really does seem much easier and you sort of ignore the rest of the mess 😉

  10. Hi there, thanks for launching this debate. I respect your point of view and I think you have some good points but I cannot totally agree with it. It would take me a whole post to explain my views and I will perhaps do it in my blog one day :-). I actually see positive and negative aspects to the fact that Burda has changed its pattern policy. To pack 52 or so patterns in 4 pages making it more difficult to draw the patterns instead of the 8 pages it used to print means it is more difficult for a sewist (and I think especially for the beginners) to draw a pattern. What used to be a good product providing good service does less now (and I would need to develop this but haven’t got the space). On the positive aspect Burda is using less paper and that means that less trees are being cut off and the Earth’s resources are being less piled up. But more will perhaps come in a future post. Cheers!

    • I do not disagree that halving the tracing sheets has made it harder to trace from. The older sheets were so much easier to decipher and I was also disappointed when I saw my first “new” issue.

      I think Burda might have made this change to save printing costs. I wonder if they had to choose between that or putting the price of the magazine up? It is a good saving of the paper too but still a shame that they perhaps didn’t consult their fans (they have a great opportunity through the internet and etc). I also think they saw that other pattern magazines (Manequim in particular) cram more patterns onto less sheets. I look forward to seeing your blog post when you write it, I enjoy reading others peoples opinions and it’s great to start the conversation, maybe Burda will notice, who knows?!.

      I got the chance to look at an old issue from the 60s the other day and it was pretty crazy! 🙂

  11. I’ve sewn mostly from Burda patterns since I started (my stash dates back to late 2007), and tracing has always been the part i least enjoy. Actually when i go back to old issues, when they used to have 2 sheets instead of one, it becomes almost pleasant to trace as you don’t have do decipher every single line.
    I hate that no matter how careful you are, there’s always a marking you’re going to miss and realize only later after you’ve folded everything back neatly…But thank goodness for their little technical drawings that show all the markiings on the piece, that’s super helpful…Also, I wish I had a huge table like yours! would sure beat having to get down on all fours and trace on the floor…

    • Ah yes, I hate having to unfold the big sheet again if I’ve missed a marking. The technical mini pieces are so helpful but there is almost always one missed isn’t here? 😉

  12. Suddenly my cutting table feels inadequate. I used to use lunch paper (three lengths cellotaped together was perfect for tracing most patterns), but I’ve been a wheel convert for a while. Plus I have a cutting guide that attaches to my cutting wheel, so it makes the seam allowances easy-peasy!

    Oh, Sophie O mentioned above about Tendance Couture having German instructions. The earliest Burdas I used were all in German, but some had an English supplement for the instructions. Neue Mode was completely in German. I also have a French Burda amongst my collection 🙂

    I’ve been sewing for a while…

  13. Seriously! I totally agree with you! Burda style patterns are sooo hard to trace but yes, as you say it takes a lot of patience to figure them out and then things go smoothly..
    But I believe they could just print an extra sheet or two just to clear out the view of my poor eyes….lol

    • It was definitely better when they had twice as many sheets! 🙂 I’ve always guessed it was a cost saving thing but I sort of have the Burda groove on now. It’s funny what you get used too, when I open up an older issue pattern sheet now I think, “Oh yes! I remember when it was like this! Look at all that white space” hehe

  14. Great tutorial post! Wish I had had this two years when I first started using Burda. Totally agree about getting “Burda vision” and that the tracing really isn’t all that bad. The worst tracing problems I ever had was with a really complicated orange colored pattern from Patrones. For some reason I find the orange color hard to see through the tracing paper and the lines intersected at odd and critical junctures. But the red/blue/green/black colors used by Burda aren’t too bad. I first started with the most recent issues, so if I use an older issue with a less dense sheet it always feels like I am cheating a bit because it is too easy. Anyway, awesome post – can’t wait to see your finished Burda items!

    • I find the Patrones colours a bit hard too, I think because they are just that little bit washed out. Manequim is ok but more messy looking than Burda! 🙂

      When I open up an older issue pattern sheet I always blink twice, “Oh yeah, that’s how they used to be!” I like that you said tracing from them feels like cheating, nah, you’ve earned it!

  15. Great post, I agree with you about tracing. It just takes a bit of patience, something sadly lacking in some people . Totally worth it for a great pattern. It is also easier to adjust the pattern without the seam allowances (something most of us have to do anyway). Also over the years if you change shape (ask me how I know) you can go back to the original to retrace a new one. Briliiant! I have more issues with some Knipmode patterns.

    • I completely agree on the SA thing, I get a bit annoyed when people complain about no SA on patterns, it’s actually better in my opinion and it doesn’t take much to add them when you are ready 🙂

  16. Harri! What a cutie *insert heart here*! I do think the main issue is what you’re used to. Since I’m used to Burda I don’t have a problem with their tracing papers. What I do is keeping the little overview next to my pattern so it’s easy to see where the attach numbers are located and the markings. Also on each pattern piece I write for example 1/8, which means it’s number one of eight pieces and write any notes (the size and if I included a FBA etc.) it helps keeping everything together. But that goes for every pattern I guess.

    • It is what you are used to isn’t it? But you can never “get used to” anything if you don’t first try. I am glad to hear there is a lot of Burda love out there 🙂

      Writing 1 of 8 on each piece is a great idea. I should have shown it a bit better but I did write the piece number, size, magazine/pattern number on each piece while tracing, it’s good practise and saves frustration when using that pattern again later on 🙂 If I lengthen a piece too I always write something like “added 4cm in length”, I guess that’s a bonus for tracing, you can scribble all your notes onto the pattern for future reference.

  17. Loved this post – especially the video…I’m on the Tracer Team too…trace every pattern I use! I like being able to go back to the original, if needs be. Miss Harriet is such a cutie!!

  18. what fun – and very impressed with all your tools – I usually just plonk a water bottle or what ever happens to be on the table to weight my pattern paper, and it never occurred to me to use rulers and the such like, I free hand everything, knowing slightly wonky lines will (hopefully) get straightened out by the sewing! Here in Belgium we can buy special “pattern paper” in sewing shops.

    • Is the “pattern paper” that stuff with dots all over it? I’ve seen other blogs mention it but never seen it in a shop here.

      I never used to have weights, then one day I was in the hardware store and saw these nuts in the bargain bin, they came home with me and some pink spray paint 😉

      I always use a ruler, you’d be surprised how many perfectly straight lines are in each pattern piece. I can freehand curves pretty good but my arms get tired trying to do the loooong straight line 😉

      • no, the pattern paper i get here is just big sheets of what at school we called “tracing paper” – I guess they are about 2x the size of a Burda sheet when they are opened out. I saw the dotty stuff for the first time on the British Sewing Bee, Tilly used it to size her pattern to her model, I think I remember them saying it was Swedish paper?

        I might have to look for some big nuts next time I am in the hard wear store, and spray paint them, I love how you roll them out almost like dice in your video!

  19. One thing I find useful is to check the piece you’ve traced against the little picture of the pattern pieces in the instruction. This has all the notches & numbers marked on it so you can see if you’ve missed something vital (easy to do).

    • Yep, that’s what I do, it’s like a mini-pattern piece and so handy to miss the grain line and all those notches/numbers within the scribble. It’s very clear on the mini piece so I go back and get the ones I missed. I mentioned this in my earlier post too 🙂

  20. love the video and am totally drooling over your cutting table… makes my piece of wood on the floor look even worse!!!! also drooling over Harri as well – MORE KITTEN PHOTOS please 🙂

  21. Sooooo jealous that you have such a super duper cutting table – only in my dreams!
    I was from Team Cut and was put off Burda magazine patterns for that reason. But I have since converted to Team Trace with the use of huge carbon tracing paper and a double tracing wheel (which I had to order of the US). No trying to peer through the top layer to find what line to trace, simply run the trace wheel around the lines which I can see, with my ‘Burda Vision’. Last weekend I traced off two patterns, with seam allowances, all within 30 minutes, and actually enjoyed it!!!

    Awesome post 🙂

    • Conversion to Team Trace is really quite painless, I’m glad you made the transition 😉 Go you, two patterns in 30 minutes! AnaJan commented below that she traces using a wheel too, I like this idea and I’m going to try it.

  22. Hi Melissa,
    I really enjoyed your post, since I’m a huge fan of Burda patterns. I learned sewing using them, way back when Burda patterns were given in one size only. Actually, Burda was the only sewing magazine I could buy in my country (Serbia), so I had no choice. When I discovered the sewing community on internet back in 2008 I was really surprised by all the negative reviews of Burda’s patterns.
    I think tracing a pattern is not much of a problem – it’s quick and easy, actually. When I don’t have a see-through paper I use paper sheets from old newspapers and a tracing wheel (it saves your money, and it is eco friendly!) to trace a pattern. No big deal, at all. Additionally, I really like that Burda patterns have no seam allowances – I like seeing a sewing line instead of the SA line. Once you get practiced enough you can eyeball the width of the SAs with no problem. That’s how I do it, and how I’ve been sewing for years!

    • Thanks Ana 🙂 Using newspapers is a great idea. I have a lot of packing paper from when we moved that I smoothed out and rolled, I might try the tracing wheel method out so I can use them up.
      I prefer no SA as well, it’s easier for me to make any changes looking at the actual stitch line on the pattern piece and then I can add whatever width SA I want.

  23. Well there you go, I didn’t know about the little joining numbers, whuda thunk!

    Thanks for this info – it will definitely come in handy.. oh and my kitty is always my weight whether I want him or not… but we can always do with lots of kitty photos; that’s what the internet was invented for, right?

    Now if my material from USA would just hurry up and arrive I can start my cape!!!!!!! It will be June before I get started. 😦



    • I am surprised that Burda don’t point out those numbers more obviously, it’s such a neat trick.

      Harri hasn’t tried being a pattern weight yet since my cutting table is so high but last night she did work out that when I am at my computer she can jump onto my lap, walk up to my shoulder and leap to the ironing board then step across to the cutting table. I had to quickly jump up and hide all the sharp and chewable things!

  24. I’m a member of the Team Trace All your Patterns so I don’t have issues with tracing Burda patterns – and I can add that we have in France a magazine called Tendances Couture (carrying Simplicity patterns) whose pattern sheets are even worse! Only 2 colours (black and red), some markings are missing and, for some reason, the notes are in German. Though there is an index with the translation, not all notes are translated. But it’s still a bargain and I sometimes simply highlight my pattern pieces with a felt tip pen to make it easier.
    Your tutorial is very straightforward and hopefully converts people to tracing patterns 🙂 Oh and I really like the trick of starting with the most complex piece, that added bonus is you can sometimes fit smaller pieces in scraps of tracing paper

    • Yeah! Go Team Trace The Patterns! 🙂 Oh my gosh, just two colours?! Madness!

      Sneaking in the little pattern pieces is a good trick, I do that too, it’s amazing how much you can squeeze on one sheet of tracing paper if you plan it.

  25. I totally agree with you, tracing BUrda is not that bad, you get the hang of it pretty quickly. And as someone who lives somewhere where that is all i can get my clammy little sewing paws on, i really dont mind. I like to stick an episode of glee on (don’t judge!) and get to tracing 3 or 4 patterns in one fell swoop!
    This is a great tutorial- i’m emailing it to all my sewing students!

    • No judging around here 🙂 Oh yes, when the tracing mood strikes I say make the most of it! I actually traced three other patterns after that, it felt so productive and now it is done, I have 4 garments I can get on and sew 🙂

  26. I totally want your cutting table too. And I clearly need to work on my Burda tracing efficiency as I really don’t think I’d have got that done in 12 minutes.

    • Honestly, I surprised myself. I wasn’t expecting 12 minutes, I thought more about 20 to 30 minutes, it’s interesting how much you can get done in a 15 minute block! 🙂

  27. Nice one 🙂

    Ok, curious now – what track were you going to use for the video originally? (Although I rather like the one you’ve ended up with, despite the dramas.)

    Also, I WANT YOUR CUTTING TABLE! (Just sayin’. *cough*)

    Plus, the fact you timed this makes me want to treat it like a game and see if I can trace a Burda skirt pattern faster than you. Hmmm. Competitive nature? Never!

    • I was thinking a little Salmonella Dub love then I tried something a bit more obscure, some Fly My Pretties (Wellington represent!) but yeah nah, stupid YouTube.

      I’ve done my time tracing/cutting on the floor, my knees and back says “never again”. My “cutting table” is actually a large sheet of pre-finished MDF (they have them at Bunnings) on top of an old drafting table that I refuse to sell. It’s a tiny bit high but I’ve got a plan to fix that someday.

      I wasn’t rushing and I did all the markings properly so I was expecting a time somewhere between 20 and 30 minutes. 12 minutes surprised me, it’s interesting how you think somethign takes ages but actually it doesn’t! Maybe we should have a trace off some time 😉 Haha

  28. I love the spy movie serious urgency of the sound track! teehee! At the studio, we use a tissue paper like a very fine vilene, 160cm wide, only $3.80m so pretty cheap tracing. But I love butter paper – I save actual butter papers to line the christmas cake tins (I make a LOT!).
    It really isn’t that hard is it…

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