The one in which we eat some cake…while wearing some Cake…but not like that…

I’m going to start off this post by saying that my Tiramisu dress and I are friends now…we weren’t during the construction, there was some grumpy sewing…in fact I was grumpy at this dress before I even started it which probably didn’t help but we’ll get to that.

What is important is that we are friends now, I am even wearing it today, at work, here is your evidence:

As you can see I went with the black and white ($2.00/meter) flavoured fabric. It was a hard decision, you guys actually liked the Phony Missoni the most:

What began the grumpiness was the fact that the bodice sizing seems to be crazy. When I started tracing the patterns I loved the idea of grading between the circle and the triangle to combine different sizes for bodice and skirt and I initially liked the idea that the bodice was sized by cup size.

Great! I’ve done this before, with a Simplicity Project Runway pattern, it worked out perfectly.

However it turns out that the “cup” sizing for Cake patterns does not relate in any way to your bra “cup” size. So I was stumped on what size to cut and became even more confused when I heard how much trouble some of the other girls were having selecting their size.

Let’s talk about some measurements, I’m not embarrassed to share. My high bust is 97cm and my full bust is 103cm, I wear a 14D bra. Since the instructions suggest going down a size if you want a snug fit I decided to cut the 35 bodice and since everyone seemed to be finding the bodice cups oversized I cut the C cup. The size chart said this would suit a 95cm bust so I was hoping this would be correct and achieve a more fitted look. I also cut the 35 midriff and graded to the 32.5 sized skirt.

I had to be extra careful cutting this fabric out, the stripes are not symmetrical so I had to think really carefully for each skirt piece so I’d end up with correctly mirrored pieces! πŸ™‚ To help with this I traced several of the stripes onto my butter paper to help line everything up.

Harri helped too, her new “thing” is burrowing.

I stitched the entire dress on my overlocker using 4-threads, AFTER I cleaned out all the Lady Grey fluff babies!

Everything went really quick and smooth. I didn’t have any fusible stay tape for the shoulder seams so I used my sew-in stay tape and caught it with the overlocker. The only problem I found at first was that my back midriff was larger that my back bodice by 1cm each side. There was a brief moment of panic when I check the paper pieces and wondered if was supposed to have added seam allowance instead of assuming it was included but a couple of quick messages with the WSBN and it was all ok. I decided I would Β just overlock that off when I joined the side seams.

When I got to try on my bodice it fitted great across the back but the cup area was HUGE! My girlies looked super saggy and non-existent and I definitely failed the bend-over-forwards-to-see-if-anything-falls-out test. The only way I could think to fix it was to unpick the midriff band and then I stood in the mirror with some pins and modified the overlap and the attachment to the band. I ended up pulling the front overlaps down below the band.

This photo above is of the band pinned in place, right sides together. You can see how much the bodice pieces stick out past the stitching line. Now that the dress is finished I think I should have overlapped them a little bit more and pulled them down at least another centimetre as the weight of the skirt didn’t help with any further fitting. My cleavage is just covered but for work I really need to wear this dress with a singlet.

Once I was happy with the bodice the rest of the dress went together so easily. I was careful to place a pin at each stripe intersection in the skirt, I really REALLY wanted perfect stripe placement. It was an intense few sewing minutes, I kept stopping to check the underside, to make sure it hadn’t slipped!

I needed a break after that and when I came back I found this:

I Β think Harri was trying to tell me something about this dress, she approves…or perhaps she was just making sure the white got some black fur on it…and it’s only fair that the black gets a little bit of white πŸ˜‰

I made a few more final fitting adjustments. I took the waist in by a huge 4cm each side and lopped 7cm off the bottom, then I turned up 1.5cm and top stitched my hem down. Hem length is a personal choice but I wonder if some of the fitting issues are due to different amounts of stretch between fabrics, there is no stretch gauge with this pattern but taking it in was really easy, I just didn’t expect by that much.

The final result? I actually really like this dress now and I am contemplating another one. Excluding the bodice issues (who likes unpicking 4-thread overlocker stitch?!) and my extra careful cutting out it was a really fast make.

My only problem now is I have no idea what size I should have cut!Β I really don’t understand why the bodice is sized with something as universally known as a “cup” but then not be related to that familiar concept at all.

I think the 35 was the right bodice size so do I cut the A cup next time? Or do I go down to the 30 but still cut a C or a D?

I have no idea, when I work it out, I’ll let you know.

Ok, enough grumpiness, enough words, I’m past it, it’s all fixed now, let’s look at some cake and some Cake, there was a lot of both!

Prepare for a bombardment of photos:

If there is one thing the Wellington Sewing Bloggers know how to do (besides sew and blog) it’s make food!

Lots and lots of food

And then more food!

Would you like to see some other Cake now?

So many talented ladies! (Photo thanks to Sandra M)

Back row, left to right: Nicola, MaryLouise, Sandra M, Zara (new member, yay!), Myself, Emma, Johanna, Joy, Holly, MaryAnne and Sandra JΒ (new member, yay!)

Front row, left to right: Nikki, Wendy and GemmaΒ (new member, yay!)

And here are just the Tiramisu girls:

Myself, Nikki,Β NicolaΒ andΒ Johanna (Photo thanks to Sandra M)

There will be lots of other group shots popping up on the other blogs in the next day or two so please take a look.

Here are a few more of my Tiramisu, thank you to Nikki and others for whealdingΒ my big-girls camera.

Check out that stripe matching…

…front and back!

Myself and Holly (in her fabulously reversible Cabarita) doing the black and white thing

Bodice close up with cake

YUM!

Now how about some Cake with cake? And what better cake than a delicious Tiramisu made by one of our new members Sandra J? This lady knows how to make friends!

Tiramisu with your Tiramisu?

As per usual we had an amazing afternoon chatting about sewing, eating cake in our Cake and laughing far too much. It was so nice to meet three new girls in our group.

So, did you attend a Cake Day or take the suggestion to sew and eat some C/cake? Please share your post with me and photos, we’d love to see your Cake with cake πŸ˜‰

I’ll leave you with our “duck face” out-take:

“Everyone do a duck face!” (Photo thanks to Sandra M)

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51 thoughts on “The one in which we eat some cake…while wearing some Cake…but not like that…

  1. Yum and yum, if you take my drift?!

    I do like the look of the Cake patterns and there’re a lot of very happy sewers wearing their Cake rather lovely creations with pride. I am just not sure they are my thing yet. Hmmmm, will wait and see. I need more curves you see, for the styles to drape themselves around.

  2. I’m a bit like you in that I prefer more structured garments. But these Cake pattern-clothes just look so darned good on real people, that I think I’m sold.

    Although what you wrote here about the different cup sizes etc was exactly how I was when I first tried out one of the Big 4’s different cup-size patterns. I still have no idea how the underlying concept actually plays out in the actual patterns, but I got a lovely blouse.
    I’m really not excited by the idea of having a similar wrestle with a Cake pattern.

    • I think the trick with this pattern is to make a muslin first which I despise so I just jumped right in. I guess I could get some cheap knit fabric to try out which bodice is right for me before I make the next one, or try and flat pattern measure it…

  3. Beautiful dress! Awesome job on the stripes, the fabric choice, fitting…. everything! I tend to buy knit fabrics but my body has been ‘shape shifiting’ if you know what I mean, and with it’s new shape, I don’t know what style to put on it so I haven’t attempted any sewing with my beautiful fabrics. Everyone wearing it in the pictures, seems to be a flattering pattern for many body types. Love your work and style.

    • I think the TIramisu is quite flattering for lots of body shapes and (apart from my bust problems) very easy to fit down the sides. I worried it wouldn’t look good on me but I think it’s all about finding the right hem length to flatter your proportions πŸ™‚

  4. I’m definitely not in love with any of the Cake-patterns, and no one has convinced me yet that I should try one, certainly not after reading all your issues with the fit… I think it is the casual style combined with knit fabrics that just isn’t my thing. I like nice fitted, structured dresses made from woven fabrics… Although I do have 3 knit dresses, but I love only 1 of them, the others are for lounging or going to the beach (which is lounging as well).
    I do like the look of your dress, you look really great in it and you did an extraordinary job knit dresses with the stripe placement too!
    Your meetup seems really nice too, I would love an afternoon with 10 other sewing ladies!

    • I can totally see where you are coming from Wendy and if not for the girls deciding we should all sew Cake I probably would have never bought the Tiramisu either. I also tend to prefer structured fabrics and fitted garments but this dress surprised me.

      Thanks, we are lucky to get together so often but it’s really just about taking the initiative, you might surprised at how many other sewists are floating around, it’s a bit of a secret underground club πŸ˜‰

  5. I also had loads of issues with the fit on this. I ended up going down a size and still taking it in at the sides. I am in a 30c now I think, crazy! Yours looks well rescued though,no obvious signs of issues πŸ™‚

    • That is crazy! Haha, I guess it is a nice change to find a pattern with sizing that is generous, just something to keep in mind for the next one. Thanks, I’m glad it’s not obvious that I was grumpy sewing πŸ˜‰

  6. Ahhh, I love it! Perfect pattern placement and stellar stripe matching!
    I’m with you about the bodice sizing, I had a lot of trouble too. But it turned out great!

  7. It looks great! All of you do! The stripe matching is amazing!

    Wish I could have joined you, but I’m already kind-of pre-committed this year (and the Cake patterns all seem to be specially designed to be dreadful on my body shape).

  8. Oh Wow, your stripe matching is just perfect!!! I’m so sorry you had such trouble with the pattern. I have never made the Tiramisu so cannot really comment on how to fix the issues. But, at least it all really came together in the end, didn’t it? Looks great!

    I also joined in (virtually) on your WSBN Let Us Sew Cake party and sewed the Cake Cabarita Top and also ate Cake (the edible, sugar kind). Kitty was invited as well and managed to steal some cake. Check here: http://gjeometry.com/2013/07/28/eat-my-cake-and-sew-it-too/

  9. This looks lovely! Your stripes are so perfectly matched and the irregularity of them looks so fantastic! When I made my Tira I just assumed D meant D bra cup, so I cut it that way and apart from some minor tweaking down the CF to keep the girls hidden, this was the simplest dress I have ever sewn without having to tweak the fit. I must confess I didn’t follow the sew-a-long or read through Cake’s tutes or anything, so I wasn’t aware that there were so many issues with the bodice fit. I’m so glad you tweaked yours so perfectly, because your dress is so pretty. πŸ™‚

    • It was a simple dress to sew in the and and so comfy to wear, I agree and I feel great in it. I’ll confess I didn’t bother to read any of the websites tips either but I think next time I’ll wing it again with a smaller cup size, I can usually save most things πŸ˜‰ Thanks

    • Thank you, if there was one thing that I wanted to go 100% right it was those silly stripes! πŸ™‚ Cough, cough, I had my own fair share too…next time I think we better try for a better savoury/sweet balance πŸ˜‰

  10. Your dress turned out great in the end, the print placement and stripe matching are perfect. I’ve just made a dress with size issues in the bodice as well so I feel your pain (mind you if I had been near all those cakes I would have had to size up my dress anyway!!), hopefully someone with experience with those patterns can help you with the sizing for future projects.

  11. So glad you are now friends with your Tiramisu after all the trials and tribulations. I know exactly where you’re coming from! It looked fab though and the stripe matching, which I wouldn’t have had the patience to do is amazing. Excellent choice of fabric, so glad I chose the right one for you πŸ™‚

    • Your advice is always appreciated πŸ˜‰ We all looked so good and each of our dresses and it’s own personality. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many versions of a pattern all together before, pretty neat. Imagine how amazing our Teal Deal photos are going to look!

  12. Your dress looks great! I love the way you lined the stripes up on the skirt pieces. Looking at the finished dress, you’d never know you had to make all those adjustments to get such a good fit. Also: your shoes!!!!!! ❀

  13. What a supercalifragilistic afternoon it was. I love hanging out with people who eat cake and sew, and I’m feeling just a little domestic-goddessy after all that sewing and cooking. I’m quite tempted to try making all the other cake patterns after seeing everyone else’s, they looked so good.

  14. For some reason the tiramisu pattern doesn’t grab me. I have bought and made the hummingbird skirt 3 times already and being pear shaped its the first non-A-line skirt that has worked for me so well. It did take me a bit of thinking to work out the sizing and its much simpler than the tiramisu. Will have to give the hummingbird top a go next. Great to see you are safe after the recent earth rumblings. Vanessa (Perth BSC) xo

    • Hi Vanessa! πŸ˜€ Yeah I wasn’t that fussed about the whole Cake line up at first. I find it a bit too casual for my style, I prefer fitted/structured garments but I figured I’d give one a go. It’s actually a really comfy dress and easy to wear without feeling like I’m wearing trackies πŸ˜‰ I also have the Cabarita but I have some ideas to alter the collar before I make that. Some of the other girls made Hummingbirds, they turned out really nice.

      We thought things had settled down here but we had another good shake the other night :/ I hope it stops soon, beginning to fray my nerves! xx

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