“There’s no limit to how much you’ll know, depending on how far beyond zebra you go.”*

You might have worked out by now that I quite like the Papercut La Sylphide pattern.

😉

(La Sylphide the first, second, third)

Hey guess what?

I made another one! 😉

I was in The Fabric Store when I really shouldn’t have been (my meeting up that end of town finished early so actually it’s my clients fault…) when I saw this cute bolt of zebra printed silk. I picked it up and carried it around for a bit and by my second store lap the chubby little zebras had convinced me I wasn’t leaving without them.

I bought 2 meters along with some dark blue poly-cotton blend. I already knew this was going to be my 4th La Sylphide.

I underlined the dress bodice and lined the skirt with the blue poly-cotton. I kept the side seams free below the waist and hemmed both skirts separately but caught the lining into the button packet at center front.

I “Frenched” the skirt side seams (that’s a sewing term) and we all know French seaming on silk goes better when paired with white wine.

I don’t really need the instructions anymore but I still find hemming is the worst part of this pattern for me, especially with naughty fabric and ALL my versions have been made with naughty fabric! To make it even worse this time I had to do two hems.

TWO HEMS!

So I hung the dress for several weeks before I could be bothered to be extra sure it had fully dropped. Then I had an epiphany and decided to hem the silk with hug-snug.

Then I just turned the dress inside out and pressed the lining hem up just a little bit shorter than the silk and stitched a simple double-fold hem.

I’m really glad I underlined/lined the silk. The poly-cotton is nice and soft to wear and it should help the dress last longer.

I had a lot of help from Harriet for my photoshoot.

She loves being outside with her humans and the Kowhai tree was just starting to flower so that means lots of birds to watch and unsuccessfully stalk.

I chose simple black buttons from Spotlight.

Spot my creepy stalker cat…and I’ll leave you with my failed twirly pictures.

THE DEETS:

Pattern – Papercut La Sylphide, size S

Fabric – Chubby zebra silk and blue poly-cotton from The Fabric Store, Wellington. Buttons from Spotlight, Porirua.

Other notions – Invisible zipper, interfacing

*Dr Seuss

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Silk Twill La Sylphide

This will be a short post with more photos than words 😉

This is my third Papercut La Sylphide. I wear my Owl La Sylphide ALL THE TIME, it’s one of my all time favourite makes. My second La Sylphide I hardly ever wear. I did something weird to the button placket, I think I cut if slightly off grain, so it doesn’t sit right. I’m also not sure that the lighter colour combined with diagonals suit me…so I needed to make another and when I saw this silk twill at Fabric-a-Brac I knew exactly what it was destined for.

This time around the fabric was way too narrow even for the reduced skirt width that I left marked from my Owl version so I had to piece on the corners. I cut these, as usual, from the selvedge, so that I could leave them unfinished to reduce seam bulk.

I feel like I’ve written ^^that ^^ in almost every blog post recently 🙂

But it’s a good trick and no one has ever pointed out my pieced on skirt-triangles in the 4 or 5 dresses I’ve done this too 😉

Red buttons!

There’s not much else to say, I really want to make another, I just have to wait for the right fabric to pop up again. It’s nice and swishy, maybe a bit too swishy sometimes for the Wellington wind, but mostly I just LOVE the colour.

Was a bit windy…

Harriet says, “Sew more! MOAR!”

THE DEETS:

Pattern – Papercut Patterns La Sylphide dress, straight size S

Skirt lengthened approx 16cms, full width of skirt pattern piece used.

Fabrics – Silk Twill found at Fabric-a-Brac, $15.00 total, bought 2nd May 2015

The lengths we go to for photos…

A Four-leaf Clover in Rayon

When I saw Kat’s Hummingbirds Clover dress my “err, I like this pattern but not sure if it’s for me” changed to “Ok, I HAVE to make this…like right now!”

Later in the week we caught up in person and I actually got to try her dress on.

Kat cut a small and I squeezed into it no trouble and with a lot less excess fabric at the waist than I expected. So I pushed the pattern up my list and had a dig through my stash. Kat used a Rayon (you need a fabric with good drape) and I had a few options but nothing that was whispering “Clover” to me.

When I popped into Spotlight to buy contrast for the 0 Degrees Bleuet I saw that all the Rayon was discounted.

Good luck right?

Absolutely! So I grabbed this black and white dot print for 30% off.

My lace is from a bag of scraps I bought a while ago from Alison Blane’s studio sale.

I’ll always remember going to that sale because it was only a few days after Wellington was rocked by a several strong earthquakes. Everyone was on edge and fabric shopping seemed like an excellent distraction but the old building she is located in scared me. The elevator was so ancient looking that climbing the stairs to level 3 seemed the safest option and I arrived out of breath but happy to see so much pretty fabric and lace.

I know that sounds totally crazy but it’s funny the things that stay with you right? I always think of that lunchtime shopping mission whenever I look through my bag of pretty lace.

Anyway, back to the dress…I added 20cms to the length and then cut it out during an epic mad “must cut out ALL THE THINGS” session one weekend when I discovered the joys of rotary cutting.

I used to cut out with my scissors and pins and because I find cutting out the most tedious of all sewing tasks I tend to do a big whack of it all in one go. I do love seeing the neat piles of cut projects ready to be sewn and then picking one up to start.

So this was the first time I’d cut out an entire garment with just my rotary cutter. I loved how easy it was and I ended up cutting out six projects all in one go and now you’ll never pry the rotary cutter out of my hands!

Later, when I grabbed the folded fabric to start sewing, I discovered that sometime during my epic cutting session I had managed to chop the point off the top of one of the front pieces.

I really have no idea how it happened! Maybe the fabric was already cut from another piece and I didn’t see the overlap when I refolded or maybe I just cut it off in a moment of distraction.  Anyway, I had no more fabric to re-cut it and no inclination to go out to get more so I ended up piecing it on from some of the scraps…

You totally can’t tell! 😉

After that minor mishap the rest of the dress sewed up no problems at all with typically excellent Papercut instructions and well drafted pieces that lined up perfectly.

I copied Kat and used “Hug Snug” seam binding for my lace seams. It’s kind of like lightweight ribbon that you bind the raw seam edge with. It adds almost no extra bulk, feels silky smooth and adds a pretty pop of colour inside. You can also curve it with steam, just like bias.

My “Hug Snug” is the same colour as Kat’s because that’s where I got it 😉 She bought quite a lot of it and gave me a nice long length to try out.

After my dress was mostly finished I tried it on and was a bit disappointed by how it looked. I didn’t own any belts that suited it so I made myself hang it back up and reserved judgement until I went shopping.

I’m happy to say that I felt much better wearing it with a belt but even more so after I chopped the bottom off.

If it’s too long this dress can easily turn frumpy so I chopped off most of the extra length I added in two steps, firstly aiming for knee length by cutting just below the knee.

When you remove a lot of extra fabric weight in a bias skirt the hem will often bounce up higher than expected. Once it was settled I cut a second smaller section off to my final length.

I haven’t been feeling particularly photogenic lately and so I’ve not really liked any photos of my new makes. However since I made poor Sandra take photos of me in the same dress on two separate occasions I decided I’d just get a little funky with the photos and get this blog draft finally posted!

I still wasn’t sure about the dress after the first couple of wears and I came pretty close to taking it right in and sticking an invisible zipper in the side but now after several wears I do really love it. It’s very comfy but also flattering and a fun dress to wear during winter with some coloured tights to cheer you up 😉

Here it is sans crazy legs for comparison:

THE DEETS:

Pattern – Papercut Clover Dress by Brooke Tyson, size S

Added 20cms to the length, then chopped most of it back off 😉

Fabrics – Rayon from Spotlight Porirua, lace off-cut from Alison Blane.

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Rigel Bomber January Round Up and a winner!

It’s time to say goodbye to January and Rigel Bomber month 😦 Thank you to everyone who sewed along with us, we really enjoyed seeing all your fabulous jackets 🙂

Sonja, Kat and I have each picked a winner from the Instagram and Flickr group photos. There were so many amazing bombers it was really hard to choose so before I tell you my pick, I thought I’d share some of the great jackets you all made.

Click on the images for links:

Loving the colour combo of Sonja’s Rigel…check out her blog post to see the fabulous lining too…and also SNOW…JEALOUS! 

Carly made two fabulous Rigels – this one features the perfect fabric combo for the shoulder triangles. Check out her blog post for some great detail photos.

Rose’s Liberty Rigel is a nice twist on floral.

Sandra’s Rigel is covered in dragonflies! 🙂 

One word: Rawr!

Chloe isn’t sure about her quilted Rigel. I think it’s fab so why don’t you go and tell her how much you love it too?

And now….

(drum roll…)

My pick for Rigel Bomber January is…

Katie from Handmade Thread’s Bomb Bomber quilted Rigel! 

I need Katie to take me fabric shopping because I LOVE this print…not content to just let the fabric rock it alone she also quilted it. Great ribbing colour choice too. Check out more gorgeous photos on her blog!

Congrats Katie, Kat will be in touch soon 🙂

Check out Kat and Sonja‘s Rigel round ups on their blogs.

It’s all over now but we had so much fun. A big shout out to Kat and Sonja for dragging me into this, it was the perfect push to finally make the Rigel and take you all along with us.

Have we convinced you to get this pattern into your life? It’s available as PDF download too.

Happy sewing, I’ll leave you with a shot of all the Instagram #rigelbomberjanuary tags 🙂 xx

Instagram Mashup

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Happy Rigel Bomber January!*

(*I know it’s February…)

I stitched up my jacket in a black and white polka dot needle cord. It took me a long time to decide what fabric to sew my bomber in, looking through my stash several times and trawling the fabric shops buying fabric…but not for my bomber.

This cord is actually a fairly recent addition to my stash from a pre-Christmas trip to Palmerston North with fellow WSBNer Sandra. We popped into Levana on our way and later we split up while I did some errands. When we met back up Sandra showed me what she’d bought from Morelands, which included the cord, and I decided I needed to go there too. So we went back and I totally copied her by buying the last of the bolt.

I was originally thinking skirt but eventually my ears attuned to the fabric’s whispering, “bomber…jacket…do it”

Your fabric whispers to you too right?

Right?!

I only had 1.55m, not enough for sleeves, but actually that much polka dot would probably have been too much anyway so I tested out an idea I had for a jacket with ponte arms and bought a black double-knit and then picked out an emerald lining fabric and mint green ribbing. I was channeling a 50s vibe I think…I might need a poodle skirt…

I drafted a lining from the pattern pieces (Kat wrote a great tutorial here) because I felt like this fabric needed it. My only other changes were to add 2cm in length to the sleeves and shorten the neck ribbing approximately 2cm at Kat’s suggestion to prevent a floppy collar.

It stitched up easily, the welt pockets went in like magic and I love my pocket lining choice.

I changed it at the last second when I found a random scrap of printed cotton in my “this is far too small to keep but I can’t bear to throw it away” box. I have no idea where it came from but it was the perfect match to both the ribbing and lining. You normally can’t see it but I know it’s there 🙂

I also used it to embellish my label.

And that’s it!

I’m really proud of this, I think it’s one of the most well made things I’ve ever made.

As my sewing improves I do notice more things I’d change next time. The arms are still just a tad short but not so much that I won’t wear it. It’s quite a different style to what I am used to, I’ve never owned a bomber jacket before and I find myself tugging it down occasionally. That’s just me getting used to it, but I think I’d like to try lengthening the body next time.

I’ve already worn this jacket a lot, it’s fun and casual and a good weight as we transition into autumn.

THE DEETS:

Pattern – Papercut Rigel Bomber, Size S, variation 1

Lengthed arms 2cm, self-drafted lining, shortened neck ribbing approx 2cm.

Next time I will lengthen the arms an extra 2cm (4cm total) and lengthen the body, maybe 5cm, need to check.

Fabrics – Needle cord for the body, double knit arms, ribbing.

I’d really love to do a glam brocade or sequinned bomber but I think my next version will be a sporty one, unlined, variation 2. I am thinking marl grey with bright coloured shoulder triangles.

Harriet was unimpressed with the lack of attention, and the beeping black thing on the tall metal tree, it was giving her the evil eye…so she is giving it right back 😉

 

Rigel Bomber Update

January is sneaking away…we’re 1/12th of the way through 2015 already, eek! 🙂

How are your bomber jackets going?

Don’t forget to get them added to our Flickr group page by the end of the month so that we can drool over your sweet jackets AND so we can pick our three favourites.

We chose Flickr because it’s easy to see the details of your makes in the bigger images however we know not everyone has an account or likes Flickr so we’ll also be looking for our favourite makes on Instagram. So, if you prefer, make sure you get your picture on there using #rigelbomberjanuary and you’re still in with a chance 🙂

I’ve been chipping away at my jacket during a busy month, with Harri’s help – it’s such tiring work for her 😉

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Drop down, increase speed and reverse direction!

So I made a hoodie…with Space Invaders on it…and lime green ribbing!

#BecauseGrownUp 😉

I picked this amazing fabric up from Levana in Levin. You must never drive north out of Wellington on SH1 and NOT go to Levana, it’s a rule.

I used the Papercut Undercover Hood which sews up in no time at all on an overlocker, and (not that it needs any further justification, but…) I made it for December’s Monthly Stitch G33k Out challenge.

I found the perfect lime with white polka dots for lining at Spotlight, on the discount table, natch! And Fabulous Sandra grabbed the green ribbing for me from a recent Fabric-a-brac, it was only $3, score!

I lined the hood as per the pattern but also the pocket for extra hidden colour and warmth.

This is super easy to do. Just cut an extra pocket piece, put them right sides together and sew around, leaving the bottom open, then turn through. I stitched the open pocket edges with my coverstitch and then attached it to the front as per the instructions, also using coverstitch. To strengthen the pocket opening I also added a narrow short zigzag at each corner.

I also ran a line of coverstitiching along the raglan sleeve seams.

The Space Invader fabric is a bit weird. It’s actually white and whole front is printed, including the black background, so when stretched you get a bit of white crackle where the base fabric shows through.

I pre-washed it and it looks ok but I don’t expect it to last very long.

The fabric wasn’t very expensive so I’ll call this a wearable muslin and I guess I’ll just have to make another…which I’ll be doing anyway 🙂

Next version I’d love to try to put a zipper in the front which should be easy…and NH is also eyeing up my hoodie sewing skills…thank goodness for speedy overlockers!

THE DEETS:

Pattern – Papercut Undercover Hood, full length version with hood, size XS

Main Fabric – Unidentifiable printed stretchy stuff from Levana, Levin

No changes next time in general, the sleeves and body are the perfect length. In a thicker fabric I might cut a size S and I’d like to try a zipper front version.