RNHS (Requested Nerdy Husband Sewing) may just become a bit of an irregularly regular series, see, I even made a new category for it ;)
My newest super-sewing-fan is keen for progress on his new rugby jersey so on a rainy Saturday I began by altering the pattern.
I started with a polo shirt from Burda 04/2007, #130 and I traced the largest size, which I knew instantly would be too small. Part of this is due to the slim fit of the pattern style I suspect, that’s a European thing, and Nerdy Husband is not into European fit.
Anywho, I compared my pattern to the “favourite” shirt and still high from the last RNHS success I set to work altering it.
The “favourite” shirt – no real surprise there!
I’m sorry I forgot to take some before photos but after tracing onto some leftover drafting film I just got right into it.
You will notice I am working with a full pattern piece, as opposed to an “on the fold” piece, I have the space and it will help me line up the stripes I hope! I am also working with no seam allowances so I can match with the true stitching lines on the All Blacks shirt. I will add them on with chalk to the fabric before I cut.
First up we needed some length – 5cm worth to be exact, and then some width, 4cm (2 cm to each side). I simply slashed my pattern piece and added it in, using “yellow trace”, my favourite tracing medium. I also raised the bottom of the button placket to match.
I applied similar changes to the back:
Then I realised that the armhole is much more relaxed on the All Blacks shirt so I added another 2 cm into them, which then meant I needed to take 2 cm out from my previous length addition. No problem, I just folded that back to 3cm. I also added the 2cm into the sleeve and ‘walked it’ around the armhole to check the final length, perfect! Strange that there appears to be no ridiculous amount of sleeve ease in this pattern.
Lastly I added length to the sleeves and here are my final pattern pieces:
My eyes are not used to looking at men’s pattern pieces, the shape and the size are so different, so I’m still not 100% convinced that this is all going to work out but it’s worth a shot!
Last night I prepared to cut it all out:
After I took this photo I rotated the pattern pieces 180 degrees before some very careful lining up and cutting.
The fabric overall looks like just repeating blue and white stripes but in actuality there is an occasionally repeating wider dark blue stripe that has a thin light blue stripe running through it. I wanted this at mid-chest and below the button placket but I also still wanted dark blue at the shoulder and hem and I could only achieve this by turning it all around.
The occasionally repeating wide stripe doesn’t appear again within the shirts length, this is either on purpose by design or more likely a fluke. Either way it’s fine by me!
Adding seam allowances
Don’t tell Nerdy Hubby that I traced the seam allowance on with my pink chaco pen and using pink pattern weights ok? He was meant to be overseeing the whole cutting operation but was far too distracted playing with the blue chaco pen and trying to work out how the chalk came out of it to notice ;)
And that is as far as I got – tonight I’ll be playing with the sleeves, hoping to get dark blue at the hem and still line up the stripes at the shoulder. I also need to dig through the stash box for some white drill for the collar and button placket and Nerdy Husband has requested rubbery buttons.
“Yes, all real rugby jerseys have rubber buttons.”
“Umm, ok then…”